Vitamin C is one of the most important antioxidants and is present in all layers of the skin. While most species can produce vitamin C, humans lack the enzyme necessary for its synthesis and require a dietary source of vitamin C.
We all know about the benefits of incorporating the vitamin C in our skincare. Let’s remind them.
Vitamins C benefits the skin in several ways. It has been clinically proven to stimulate collagen synthesis, essential for healthy and firm skin. It also protects skin against oxidative stress because of its antioxidant properties. Incorporating vitamin C into topical skin treatment will:
- Aid skin regeneration process by preventing or reducing damage to skin cells caused by free radicals and oxidative stress e.g. pollution or UV-exposure.
- Prevent premature skin ageing and keep wrinkles at bay by promoting collagen production
- Prevent skin hyperpigmentation by inhibiting the skin’s melanin production
Vitamin C will:
- brighten your complexion
- smooth out the lines
- firm the skin
- revive dull-looking skin
It is one of the most researched cosmetic ingredients proven to work.
With a wide variety of products featuring vitamin C, is there anything specific we should be looking for in vitamin C products?
Often the first question we ask is about the concentration. We think the higher, the better. However, the key question we should be asking is what type of vitamin C is used in the product. There are so many different forms of vitamin C, to name just a few… Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Dipalmitate, Ascorbyl Stearate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, and Ascorbic Acid itself.
What we need to know and understand is that some forms of vitamin C do not convert to the biologically active form, and some are not delivered into the dermis in an adequate quantity. Finally, the stability of vitamin C in the formulation is the critical thing responsible for its efficacy.
For example, Ascorbic Acid, commonly known as vitamin C, is water-soluble and highly unstable when exposed to air or light. On the other hand, we have Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, which are lipophilic (fat-loving), soluble in oil, and very stable. It is said this type of vitamin C have a higher skin affinity because the surface of the skin is covered with a layer of lipids and responds well to lipophilic substances just like Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate or Tocopherols (vitamin E).
Numerous studies have shown that Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate penetrates the skin deeper, both the epidermis and dermis than any other form of vitamin C. It has also been clinically proven to suppress the pigmentation after exposure to UVB irradiation and is effective even at the low concentration of 1%.
So let's summarise:
1) It is important to know the type of vitamin C in the skincare product.
2) Some forms of vitamin C do not require high concentration to work, they will be as effective at a lower level.
3) Stability of vitamin C and whether it converts to a biologically active form in the skin are vital considerations when formulating or choosing an effective vitamin C skincare.
4) Lipophilic form of vitamin C like Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, a novel form of vitamin C, has been proven highly effective in preventing skin photo-ageing and skin damage associated with exposure to UV-radiation.
5) Combining vitamin C with vitamin E effectively increases protection against UV-induced skin damage. Both antioxidants are capable of reducing oxidative stress and should be used alongside sunscreen blocks, which used alone do not block all the free radicals produced by UV-exposure.
6) It is untrue that Vitamin C products should only be applied in the morning. Vitamin C is also useful after exposure to UV- radiation and can be used at night.
7) Vitamin C should not be used together with benzoyl peroxide, used to treat acne, as it oxidizes the vitamin C.
Time for vitamin C?
Discover our highly effective Vitamin C Serum – which combines vitamin C in its stable Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate form, and vitamin E with potent botanical actives like carrot and rosehip CO2 extracts, bisabolol, pomegranate, and sea buckthorn oils.
Our night treatment – Dream Couple – consists of two serums, one with vitamins C and E and one with 3% of the purest, multi-molecular Hyaluronic Acid.
Try it for yourself and transform your skin into healthy, glowing and more youthful-looking.
1) Cover photo by Rayia Soderberg - Unsplash
2) Mae Mu - Unsplash
3) Dream Couple photo by Showy London @showyldn